Tirana Ekspres

WJ #96

Tirana Ekspres è un centro culturale avanguardistico, almeno secondo i pochi blog di viaggi sull’Albania. La realtà parla invece di una mèta introvabile e sconosciuta, probabilmente inesistente.

Camminare nel centro della capitale albanese ricorda, per certi versi, le immagini dell’Italia del dopoguerra: giovani che scendevano in piazza con il “completo buono”, per tornare a vivere le strade, quasi non credendo che la guerra fosse finita. C’è chi gioca a carte, chi legge il giornale sulla panchina o prende il sole. Ma c’è anche chi si spoglia della propria canottiera per usare l’acqua delle fontanelle per lavarsi.

A Tirana, c’è un popolo che guarda all’Italia, non solo nell’uso della lingua, ma nel voler promuovere insistentemente la moda, i costumi e la cucina. C’è un fermento culturale palpabile: gallerie d’arte, biblioteche adibite a centri culturali, il Tirana International Film Festival e musei negli ex bunker della nomenclatura, come il Bunk’Art2 nei locali dell’ex rifugio antiatomico del Ministero degli Interni dedicato alle vittime del regime comunista.

Il Blloku/Block, il quartiere dove vivevano un tempo il dittatore Enver Hoxha e i funzionari del partito, è ora il quartiere cool della Capitale, con ristoranti, bar, boutique, discoteche, caffè letterari e librerie. Palazzi decandenti che Edi Rama, artista divenuto sindaco di Tirana e ora attuale premier del Paese, ha voluto colorare in modi accesi e sgargianti, per discostarsi dal grigio universale intonaco del regime.

Ma basta muoversi di pochi chilometri dal benessere, quasi ostentato, del centro città per trovare realtà molto diverse. Il Kombinat, quartiere operaio che ospitava le principali aziende di Tirana, ora è una periferia degradata dove vivono rifugiati e immigrati e sopravvivono poche fabbriche locali che lavorano per il mercato Italiano.

Blerim ha 36 anni e produce scarpe da ballo. Il suo modello sono le aziende marchigiane, che ha potuto studiare mentre frequentava l’università a Bologna. “Non potevo più rimanere in Italia, lavoravo per mantenermi agli studi e non ero in regola con gli esami per avere il rinnovo del permesso di soggiorno. Piuttosto che prendere una brutta strada, ho deciso di tornare nella mia terra, importando il meglio del made in Italy”. 

Sembra impossibile che piazza Scanderberg, con la sua maestosità, le sue fontane e la sua luce, sia solo a pochi km da questo scenario. Il fascino di Tirana è forse nelle sue contraddizioni? Un venditore del mercato se lo chiede: “Ditemi la verità, cosa si dice di noi in Italia? Che siamo tutti ladri? Spiegatelo che qui non siamo come quelli che vengono da voi, quelli son tutti delinquenti che scappano dalle nostre regole”.

Il reportage

Scheda autore

Andrea Chierici e Veronica Molese

[:it][:it]Andrea Chierici

Ha 32 anni e ancora non sa bene cosa farà da grande. Di certo non una sola cosa.

Ma se dovesse essere una gli piacerebbe girare il mondo, tra le case diroccate di Cuba, le moschee di Isfahan e le rive del Bosforo con la macchina fotografica in mano.

Sempre sicuro che Bologna e le sue torri saranno lì ad attenderlo.

 

 

Veronica Molese

Napoletana, giornalista professionista, vive a Roma.

Laureata in Scienze Politiche internazionali, dopo un decennio passato tra radio, carta stampata e agenzia, lavora da anni nella comunicazione istituzionale.

Pienamente felice e presente a se stessa, quando può prendere e partire con la sua macchina fotografica in giro per il mondo.[:en][:][:en][:]

English version

[:it][:it][:it][:it][:it][:it]

Tirana Ekspres

 

Photography by Andrea Chierici e Veronica Mollese

Story edited by Antonio Oleari

 

A trip to Tirana tells us about the difficult Albanian “rebirth”. Although it faces economic and social contradictions, this young democracy is trying to find a balance between past and future

 

In Tirana, there is a people that looks to Italy, not only in the use of language, but in wanting to promote fashion, costumes and cuisine. There is a palpable cultural ferment: art galleries, libraries used for cultural centers, the Tirana International Film Festival and museums in the former nomenclature bunkers, such as the Bunk’Art2 dedicated to victims of the communist regime.

 

The Blloku / Block, the neighborhood where formerly the dictator Enver Hoxha and the party officials once lived, is now one of the coolest place of the Capital, with restaurants, bars, boutiques, nightclubs, literary cafes and bookshops. Decadent buildings that Edi Rama, artist who became mayor of Tirana and now the premier of the country, wanted to color in bright and flashy ways, to deviate from the universal gray plaster of the regime.

 

But just move a few kilometers from the well-being, almost ostentatious, of the city center to find very different realities. The Kombinat, the workers’ district that housed the main companies in Tirana, is now a degraded suburb where refugees and immigrants live and few local factories that work for the Italian market survive.[:]

 

Robert D. Kaplan: Europe, the US and early-stage globalization

by Sidonja Manushi

 

The first time Robert D. Kaplan was in Albania, the country was still isolated, deprived and unknown. Although communism was in its final throes, it had not officially fallen, and so nobody from the West had been in the capital, let alone rural areas, for decades

 

Passing through the now modern Skanderbeg Square with a tour group from Greece, Kaplan, who was no stranger to the Balkans, then saw a very different image from what one sees strolling down Tirana’s center today: a number of gangs, made up of ten-year-old boys, harassing and pickpocketing around old stores, most of which poor, empty and surprisingly standing despite the cheap quality everything was made of.

 

“It was like going backwards in time,” says Kaplan now, 28 years later, “and I hadn’t been back since. It is different, like coming to a new country, but having the advantage of having known how far it’s come.”

 

For Kaplan, renowned American author whose books on foreign affairs and traveling are read from university students to former US President Bill Clinton, distinguishing the sometimes subtle causes and effects of the Hoxha regime in Albanian society makes up part of his life’s work.

 

“I can see the incredible change and although I have read about it, what strikes me, with people asking my impression of Albania now, etc., is that the worst, the more oppressive the communist system, the harder it is to recover from,” he says, drawing parallels with Romania, from where he was reporting until the 1980s. Romania, Kaplan notes, was by far the worst communist system in Eastern Europe – apart from Albania. Throughout the 90s, the country was far behind Hungary, Poland and Czech Republic and, although you could still enter Romania and leave its borders, it took 20 years for it to reach normality.

Read the complete story on tiranatimes.com[:][:en]

 

Robert D. Kaplan: Europe, the US and early-stage globalization

by Sidonja Manushi

 

The first time Robert D. Kaplan was in Albania, the country was still isolated, deprived and unknown. Although communism was in its final throes, it had not officially fallen, and so nobody from the West had been in the capital, let alone rural areas, for decades

 

Passing through the now modern Skanderbeg Square with a tour group from Greece, Kaplan, who was no stranger to the Balkans, then saw a very different image from what one sees strolling down Tirana’s center today: a number of gangs, made up of ten-year-old boys, harassing and pickpocketing around old stores, most of which poor, empty and surprisingly standing despite the cheap quality everything was made of.

 

“It was like going backwards in time,” says Kaplan now, 28 years later, “and I hadn’t been back since. It is different, like coming to a new country, but having the advantage of having known how far it’s come.”

 

For Kaplan, renowned American author whose books on foreign affairs and traveling are read from university students to former US President Bill Clinton, distinguishing the sometimes subtle causes and effects of the Hoxha regime in Albanian society makes up part of his life’s work.

 

“I can see the incredible change and although I have read about it, what strikes me, with people asking my impression of Albania now, etc., is that the worst, the more oppressive the communist system, the harder it is to recover from,” he says, drawing parallels with Romania, from where he was reporting until the 1980s. Romania, Kaplan notes, was by far the worst communist system in Eastern Europe – apart from Albania. Throughout the 90s, the country was far behind Hungary, Poland and Czech Republic and, although you could still enter Romania and leave its borders, it took 20 years for it to reach normality.

Read the complete story on tiranatimes.com[:][:en]

 

Robert D. Kaplan: Europe, the US and early-stage globalization

by Sidonja Manushi

 

The first time Robert D. Kaplan was in Albania, the country was still isolated, deprived and unknown. Although communism was in its final throes, it had not officially fallen, and so nobody from the West had been in the capital, let alone rural areas, for decades

 

Passing through the now modern Skanderbeg Square with a tour group from Greece, Kaplan, who was no stranger to the Balkans, then saw a very different image from what one sees strolling down Tirana’s center today: a number of gangs, made up of ten-year-old boys, harassing and pickpocketing around old stores, most of which poor, empty and surprisingly standing despite the cheap quality everything was made of.

 

“It was like going backwards in time,” says Kaplan now, 28 years later, “and I hadn’t been back since. It is different, like coming to a new country, but having the advantage of having known how far it’s come.”

 

For Kaplan, renowned American author whose books on foreign affairs and traveling are read from university students to former US President Bill Clinton, distinguishing the sometimes subtle causes and effects of the Hoxha regime in Albanian society makes up part of his life’s work.

 

“I can see the incredible change and although I have read about it, what strikes me, with people asking my impression of Albania now, etc., is that the worst, the more oppressive the communist system, the harder it is to recover from,” he says, drawing parallels with Romania, from where he was reporting until the 1980s. Romania, Kaplan notes, was by far the worst communist system in Eastern Europe – apart from Albania. Throughout the 90s, the country was far behind Hungary, Poland and Czech Republic and, although you could still enter Romania and leave its borders, it took 20 years for it to reach normality.

Read the complete story on tiranatimes.com

 

Robert D. Kaplan: Europe, the US and early-stage globalization

by Sidonja Manushi

 

The first time Robert D. Kaplan was in Albania, the country was still isolated, deprived and unknown. Although communism was in its final throes, it had not officially fallen, and so nobody from the West had been in the capital, let alone rural areas, for decades

 

Passing through the now modern Skanderbeg Square with a tour group from Greece, Kaplan, who was no stranger to the Balkans, then saw a very different image from what one sees strolling down Tirana’s center today: a number of gangs, made up of ten-year-old boys, harassing and pickpocketing around old stores, most of which poor, empty and surprisingly standing despite the cheap quality everything was made of.

 

“It was like going backwards in time,” says Kaplan now, 28 years later, “and I hadn’t been back since. It is different, like coming to a new country, but having the advantage of having known how far it’s come.”

 

For Kaplan, renowned American author whose books on foreign affairs and traveling are read from university students to former US President Bill Clinton, distinguishing the sometimes subtle causes and effects of the Hoxha regime in Albanian society makes up part of his life’s work.

 

“I can see the incredible change and although I have read about it, what strikes me, with people asking my impression of Albania now, etc., is that the worst, the more oppressive the communist system, the harder it is to recover from,” he says, drawing parallels with Romania, from where he was reporting until the 1980s. Romania, Kaplan notes, was by far the worst communist system in Eastern Europe – apart from Albania. Throughout the 90s, the country was far behind Hungary, Poland and Czech Republic and, although you could still enter Romania and leave its borders, it took 20 years for it to reach normality.

Read the complete story on tiranatimes.com[:][:en]

 

Robert D. Kaplan: Europe, the US and early-stage globalization

by Sidonja Manushi

 

The first time Robert D. Kaplan was in Albania, the country was still isolated, deprived and unknown. Although communism was in its final throes, it had not officially fallen, and so nobody from the West had been in the capital, let alone rural areas, for decades

 

Passing through the now modern Skanderbeg Square with a tour group from Greece, Kaplan, who was no stranger to the Balkans, then saw a very different image from what one sees strolling down Tirana’s center today: a number of gangs, made up of ten-year-old boys, harassing and pickpocketing around old stores, most of which poor, empty and surprisingly standing despite the cheap quality everything was made of.

 

“It was like going backwards in time,” says Kaplan now, 28 years later, “and I hadn’t been back since. It is different, like coming to a new country, but having the advantage of having known how far it’s come.”

 

For Kaplan, renowned American author whose books on foreign affairs and traveling are read from university students to former US President Bill Clinton, distinguishing the sometimes subtle causes and effects of the Hoxha regime in Albanian society makes up part of his life’s work.

 

“I can see the incredible change and although I have read about it, what strikes me, with people asking my impression of Albania now, etc., is that the worst, the more oppressive the communist system, the harder it is to recover from,” he says, drawing parallels with Romania, from where he was reporting until the 1980s. Romania, Kaplan notes, was by far the worst communist system in Eastern Europe – apart from Albania. Throughout the 90s, the country was far behind Hungary, Poland and Czech Republic and, although you could still enter Romania and leave its borders, it took 20 years for it to reach normality.

Read the complete story on tiranatimes.com

 

Robert D. Kaplan: Europe, the US and early-stage globalization

by Sidonja Manushi

 

The first time Robert D. Kaplan was in Albania, the country was still isolated, deprived and unknown. Although communism was in its final throes, it had not officially fallen, and so nobody from the West had been in the capital, let alone rural areas, for decades

 

Passing through the now modern Skanderbeg Square with a tour group from Greece, Kaplan, who was no stranger to the Balkans, then saw a very different image from what one sees strolling down Tirana’s center today: a number of gangs, made up of ten-year-old boys, harassing and pickpocketing around old stores, most of which poor, empty and surprisingly standing despite the cheap quality everything was made of.

 

“It was like going backwards in time,” says Kaplan now, 28 years later, “and I hadn’t been back since. It is different, like coming to a new country, but having the advantage of having known how far it’s come.”

 

For Kaplan, renowned American author whose books on foreign affairs and traveling are read from university students to former US President Bill Clinton, distinguishing the sometimes subtle causes and effects of the Hoxha regime in Albanian society makes up part of his life’s work.

 

“I can see the incredible change and although I have read about it, what strikes me, with people asking my impression of Albania now, etc., is that the worst, the more oppressive the communist system, the harder it is to recover from,” he says, drawing parallels with Romania, from where he was reporting until the 1980s. Romania, Kaplan notes, was by far the worst communist system in Eastern Europe – apart from Albania. Throughout the 90s, the country was far behind Hungary, Poland and Czech Republic and, although you could still enter Romania and leave its borders, it took 20 years for it to reach normality.

Read the complete story on tiranatimes.com

 

Robert D. Kaplan: Europe, the US and early-stage globalization

by Sidonja Manushi

 

The first time Robert D. Kaplan was in Albania, the country was still isolated, deprived and unknown. Although communism was in its final throes, it had not officially fallen, and so nobody from the West had been in the capital, let alone rural areas, for decades

 

Passing through the now modern Skanderbeg Square with a tour group from Greece, Kaplan, who was no stranger to the Balkans, then saw a very different image from what one sees strolling down Tirana’s center today: a number of gangs, made up of ten-year-old boys, harassing and pickpocketing around old stores, most of which poor, empty and surprisingly standing despite the cheap quality everything was made of.

 

“It was like going backwards in time,” says Kaplan now, 28 years later, “and I hadn’t been back since. It is different, like coming to a new country, but having the advantage of having known how far it’s come.”

 

For Kaplan, renowned American author whose books on foreign affairs and traveling are read from university students to former US President Bill Clinton, distinguishing the sometimes subtle causes and effects of the Hoxha regime in Albanian society makes up part of his life’s work.

 

“I can see the incredible change and although I have read about it, what strikes me, with people asking my impression of Albania now, etc., is that the worst, the more oppressive the communist system, the harder it is to recover from,” he says, drawing parallels with Romania, from where he was reporting until the 1980s. Romania, Kaplan notes, was by far the worst communist system in Eastern Europe – apart from Albania. Throughout the 90s, the country was far behind Hungary, Poland and Czech Republic and, although you could still enter Romania and leave its borders, it took 20 years for it to reach normality.

Read the complete story on tiranatimes.com

 

Robert D. Kaplan: Europe, the US and early-stage globalization

by Sidonja Manushi

 

The first time Robert D. Kaplan was in Albania, the country was still isolated, deprived and unknown. Although communism was in its final throes, it had not officially fallen, and so nobody from the West had been in the capital, let alone rural areas, for decades

 

Passing through the now modern Skanderbeg Square with a tour group from Greece, Kaplan, who was no stranger to the Balkans, then saw a very different image from what one sees strolling down Tirana’s center today: a number of gangs, made up of ten-year-old boys, harassing and pickpocketing around old stores, most of which poor, empty and surprisingly standing despite the cheap quality everything was made of.

 

“It was like going backwards in time,” says Kaplan now, 28 years later, “and I hadn’t been back since. It is different, like coming to a new country, but having the advantage of having known how far it’s come.”

 

For Kaplan, renowned American author whose books on foreign affairs and traveling are read from university students to former US President Bill Clinton, distinguishing the sometimes subtle causes and effects of the Hoxha regime in Albanian society makes up part of his life’s work.

 

“I can see the incredible change and although I have read about it, what strikes me, with people asking my impression of Albania now, etc., is that the worst, the more oppressive the communist system, the harder it is to recover from,” he says, drawing parallels with Romania, from where he was reporting until the 1980s. Romania, Kaplan notes, was by far the worst communist system in Eastern Europe – apart from Albania. Throughout the 90s, the country was far behind Hungary, Poland and Czech Republic and, although you could still enter Romania and leave its borders, it took 20 years for it to reach normality.

Read the complete story on tiranatimes.com[:][:en]

 

Robert D. Kaplan: Europe, the US and early-stage globalization

by Sidonja Manushi

 

The first time Robert D. Kaplan was in Albania, the country was still isolated, deprived and unknown. Although communism was in its final throes, it had not officially fallen, and so nobody from the West had been in the capital, let alone rural areas, for decades

 

Passing through the now modern Skanderbeg Square with a tour group from Greece, Kaplan, who was no stranger to the Balkans, then saw a very different image from what one sees strolling down Tirana’s center today: a number of gangs, made up of ten-year-old boys, harassing and pickpocketing around old stores, most of which poor, empty and surprisingly standing despite the cheap quality everything was made of.

 

“It was like going backwards in time,” says Kaplan now, 28 years later, “and I hadn’t been back since. It is different, like coming to a new country, but having the advantage of having known how far it’s come.”

 

For Kaplan, renowned American author whose books on foreign affairs and traveling are read from university students to former US President Bill Clinton, distinguishing the sometimes subtle causes and effects of the Hoxha regime in Albanian society makes up part of his life’s work.

 

“I can see the incredible change and although I have read about it, what strikes me, with people asking my impression of Albania now, etc., is that the worst, the more oppressive the communist system, the harder it is to recover from,” he says, drawing parallels with Romania, from where he was reporting until the 1980s. Romania, Kaplan notes, was by far the worst communist system in Eastern Europe – apart from Albania. Throughout the 90s, the country was far behind Hungary, Poland and Czech Republic and, although you could still enter Romania and leave its borders, it took 20 years for it to reach normality.

Read the complete story on tiranatimes.com

 

Robert D. Kaplan: Europe, the US and early-stage globalization

by Sidonja Manushi

 

The first time Robert D. Kaplan was in Albania, the country was still isolated, deprived and unknown. Although communism was in its final throes, it had not officially fallen, and so nobody from the West had been in the capital, let alone rural areas, for decades

 

Passing through the now modern Skanderbeg Square with a tour group from Greece, Kaplan, who was no stranger to the Balkans, then saw a very different image from what one sees strolling down Tirana’s center today: a number of gangs, made up of ten-year-old boys, harassing and pickpocketing around old stores, most of which poor, empty and surprisingly standing despite the cheap quality everything was made of.

 

“It was like going backwards in time,” says Kaplan now, 28 years later, “and I hadn’t been back since. It is different, like coming to a new country, but having the advantage of having known how far it’s come.”

 

For Kaplan, renowned American author whose books on foreign affairs and traveling are read from university students to former US President Bill Clinton, distinguishing the sometimes subtle causes and effects of the Hoxha regime in Albanian society makes up part of his life’s work.

 

“I can see the incredible change and although I have read about it, what strikes me, with people asking my impression of Albania now, etc., is that the worst, the more oppressive the communist system, the harder it is to recover from,” he says, drawing parallels with Romania, from where he was reporting until the 1980s. Romania, Kaplan notes, was by far the worst communist system in Eastern Europe – apart from Albania. Throughout the 90s, the country was far behind Hungary, Poland and Czech Republic and, although you could still enter Romania and leave its borders, it took 20 years for it to reach normality.

Read the complete story on tiranatimes.com

 

Robert D. Kaplan: Europe, the US and early-stage globalization

by Sidonja Manushi

 

The first time Robert D. Kaplan was in Albania, the country was still isolated, deprived and unknown. Although communism was in its final throes, it had not officially fallen, and so nobody from the West had been in the capital, let alone rural areas, for decades

 

Passing through the now modern Skanderbeg Square with a tour group from Greece, Kaplan, who was no stranger to the Balkans, then saw a very different image from what one sees strolling down Tirana’s center today: a number of gangs, made up of ten-year-old boys, harassing and pickpocketing around old stores, most of which poor, empty and surprisingly standing despite the cheap quality everything was made of.

 

“It was like going backwards in time,” says Kaplan now, 28 years later, “and I hadn’t been back since. It is different, like coming to a new country, but having the advantage of having known how far it’s come.”

 

For Kaplan, renowned American author whose books on foreign affairs and traveling are read from university students to former US President Bill Clinton, distinguishing the sometimes subtle causes and effects of the Hoxha regime in Albanian society makes up part of his life’s work.

 

“I can see the incredible change and although I have read about it, what strikes me, with people asking my impression of Albania now, etc., is that the worst, the more oppressive the communist system, the harder it is to recover from,” he says, drawing parallels with Romania, from where he was reporting until the 1980s. Romania, Kaplan notes, was by far the worst communist system in Eastern Europe – apart from Albania. Throughout the 90s, the country was far behind Hungary, Poland and Czech Republic and, although you could still enter Romania and leave its borders, it took 20 years for it to reach normality.

Read the complete story on tiranatimes.com

 

Robert D. Kaplan: Europe, the US and early-stage globalization

by Sidonja Manushi

 

The first time Robert D. Kaplan was in Albania, the country was still isolated, deprived and unknown. Although communism was in its final throes, it had not officially fallen, and so nobody from the West had been in the capital, let alone rural areas, for decades

 

Passing through the now modern Skanderbeg Square with a tour group from Greece, Kaplan, who was no stranger to the Balkans, then saw a very different image from what one sees strolling down Tirana’s center today: a number of gangs, made up of ten-year-old boys, harassing and pickpocketing around old stores, most of which poor, empty and surprisingly standing despite the cheap quality everything was made of.

 

“It was like going backwards in time,” says Kaplan now, 28 years later, “and I hadn’t been back since. It is different, like coming to a new country, but having the advantage of having known how far it’s come.”

 

For Kaplan, renowned American author whose books on foreign affairs and traveling are read from university students to former US President Bill Clinton, distinguishing the sometimes subtle causes and effects of the Hoxha regime in Albanian society makes up part of his life’s work.

 

“I can see the incredible change and although I have read about it, what strikes me, with people asking my impression of Albania now, etc., is that the worst, the more oppressive the communist system, the harder it is to recover from,” he says, drawing parallels with Romania, from where he was reporting until the 1980s. Romania, Kaplan notes, was by far the worst communist system in Eastern Europe – apart from Albania. Throughout the 90s, the country was far behind Hungary, Poland and Czech Republic and, although you could still enter Romania and leave its borders, it took 20 years for it to reach normality.

Read the complete story on tiranatimes.com

 

Robert D. Kaplan: Europe, the US and early-stage globalization

by Sidonja Manushi

 

The first time Robert D. Kaplan was in Albania, the country was still isolated, deprived and unknown. Although communism was in its final throes, it had not officially fallen, and so nobody from the West had been in the capital, let alone rural areas, for decades

 

Passing through the now modern Skanderbeg Square with a tour group from Greece, Kaplan, who was no stranger to the Balkans, then saw a very different image from what one sees strolling down Tirana’s center today: a number of gangs, made up of ten-year-old boys, harassing and pickpocketing around old stores, most of which poor, empty and surprisingly standing despite the cheap quality everything was made of.

 

“It was like going backwards in time,” says Kaplan now, 28 years later, “and I hadn’t been back since. It is different, like coming to a new country, but having the advantage of having known how far it’s come.”

 

For Kaplan, renowned American author whose books on foreign affairs and traveling are read from university students to former US President Bill Clinton, distinguishing the sometimes subtle causes and effects of the Hoxha regime in Albanian society makes up part of his life’s work.

 

“I can see the incredible change and although I have read about it, what strikes me, with people asking my impression of Albania now, etc., is that the worst, the more oppressive the communist system, the harder it is to recover from,” he says, drawing parallels with Romania, from where he was reporting until the 1980s. Romania, Kaplan notes, was by far the worst communist system in Eastern Europe – apart from Albania. Throughout the 90s, the country was far behind Hungary, Poland and Czech Republic and, although you could still enter Romania and leave its borders, it took 20 years for it to reach normality.

Read the complete story on tiranatimes.com

 

Robert D. Kaplan: Europe, the US and early-stage globalization

by Sidonja Manushi

 

The first time Robert D. Kaplan was in Albania, the country was still isolated, deprived and unknown. Although communism was in its final throes, it had not officially fallen, and so nobody from the West had been in the capital, let alone rural areas, for decades

 

Passing through the now modern Skanderbeg Square with a tour group from Greece, Kaplan, who was no stranger to the Balkans, then saw a very different image from what one sees strolling down Tirana’s center today: a number of gangs, made up of ten-year-old boys, harassing and pickpocketing around old stores, most of which poor, empty and surprisingly standing despite the cheap quality everything was made of.

 

“It was like going backwards in time,” says Kaplan now, 28 years later, “and I hadn’t been back since. It is different, like coming to a new country, but having the advantage of having known how far it’s come.”

 

For Kaplan, renowned American author whose books on foreign affairs and traveling are read from university students to former US President Bill Clinton, distinguishing the sometimes subtle causes and effects of the Hoxha regime in Albanian society makes up part of his life’s work.

 

“I can see the incredible change and although I have read about it, what strikes me, with people asking my impression of Albania now, etc., is that the worst, the more oppressive the communist system, the harder it is to recover from,” he says, drawing parallels with Romania, from where he was reporting until the 1980s. Romania, Kaplan notes, was by far the worst communist system in Eastern Europe – apart from Albania. Throughout the 90s, the country was far behind Hungary, Poland and Czech Republic and, although you could still enter Romania and leave its borders, it took 20 years for it to reach normality.

Read the complete story on tiranatimes.com

 

Robert D. Kaplan: Europe, the US and early-stage globalization

by Sidonja Manushi

 

The first time Robert D. Kaplan was in Albania, the country was still isolated, deprived and unknown. Although communism was in its final throes, it had not officially fallen, and so nobody from the West had been in the capital, let alone rural areas, for decades

 

Passing through the now modern Skanderbeg Square with a tour group from Greece, Kaplan, who was no stranger to the Balkans, then saw a very different image from what one sees strolling down Tirana’s center today: a number of gangs, made up of ten-year-old boys, harassing and pickpocketing around old stores, most of which poor, empty and surprisingly standing despite the cheap quality everything was made of.

 

“It was like going backwards in time,” says Kaplan now, 28 years later, “and I hadn’t been back since. It is different, like coming to a new country, but having the advantage of having known how far it’s come.”

 

For Kaplan, renowned American author whose books on foreign affairs and traveling are read from university students to former US President Bill Clinton, distinguishing the sometimes subtle causes and effects of the Hoxha regime in Albanian society makes up part of his life’s work.

 

“I can see the incredible change and although I have read about it, what strikes me, with people asking my impression of Albania now, etc., is that the worst, the more oppressive the communist system, the harder it is to recover from,” he says, drawing parallels with Romania, from where he was reporting until the 1980s. Romania, Kaplan notes, was by far the worst communist system in Eastern Europe – apart from Albania. Throughout the 90s, the country was far behind Hungary, Poland and Czech Republic and, although you could still enter Romania and leave its borders, it took 20 years for it to reach normality.

Read the complete story on tiranatimes.com

 

Robert D. Kaplan: Europe, the US and early-stage globalization

by Sidonja Manushi

 

The first time Robert D. Kaplan was in Albania, the country was still isolated, deprived and unknown. Although communism was in its final throes, it had not officially fallen, and so nobody from the West had been in the capital, let alone rural areas, for decades

 

Passing through the now modern Skanderbeg Square with a tour group from Greece, Kaplan, who was no stranger to the Balkans, then saw a very different image from what one sees strolling down Tirana’s center today: a number of gangs, made up of ten-year-old boys, harassing and pickpocketing around old stores, most of which poor, empty and surprisingly standing despite the cheap quality everything was made of.

 

“It was like going backwards in time,” says Kaplan now, 28 years later, “and I hadn’t been back since. It is different, like coming to a new country, but having the advantage of having known how far it’s come.”

 

For Kaplan, renowned American author whose books on foreign affairs and traveling are read from university students to former US President Bill Clinton, distinguishing the sometimes subtle causes and effects of the Hoxha regime in Albanian society makes up part of his life’s work.

 

“I can see the incredible change and although I have read about it, what strikes me, with people asking my impression of Albania now, etc., is that the worst, the more oppressive the communist system, the harder it is to recover from,” he says, drawing parallels with Romania, from where he was reporting until the 1980s. Romania, Kaplan notes, was by far the worst communist system in Eastern Europe – apart from Albania. Throughout the 90s, the country was far behind Hungary, Poland and Czech Republic and, although you could still enter Romania and leave its borders, it took 20 years for it to reach normality.

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